Acne can be a frustrating and confidence-sapping skin condition. Those small red bumps seem to pop up at the worst times, like right before a big date or important interview. While acne is common during puberty thanks to shifting hormones, it can continue well into adulthood for many people. Certain peels offered by dermatologists and aestheticians have proven quite effective at tackling acne and leading to clearer, healthier skin. But with so many types of chemical peels available, how do you determine which is the best peel for your acne?
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll examine the pros and cons of different acid peels for reducing different types of acne. You’ll learn how peels work, what ingredients target acne, plus aftercare tips for maintaining the best results. While every person’s skin is unique, certain peels tend to produce better outcomes for certain acne conditions. Read on to find the best peel for your specific needs.
How Do Chemical Peels Combat Acne?
Before diving into the top peels for acne, it helps to understand exactly how chemical peels fight acne in the first place. Chemical peels involve applying a chemical solution to the face that breaks down the bonds holding together the top layers of skin cells. This allows the dead skin cells to slough off, revealing smoother and clearer skin underneath.
Most peels use alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid. Higher strength trichloroacetic acid (TCA) may also be used. Each acid works a little differently to reduce acne.
AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid primarily work by increasing cell turnover. They help peel away the surface layers of skin more rapidly. This prevents pores from becoming clogged with dead skin cells and debris that can lead to whiteheads and blackheads. Quicker cell turnover also helps smooth out uneven texture and tone.
BHAs like salicylic acid are oil-soluble, meaning they can get inside follicles and pores to clear out sebum, bacteria and buildup. This helps prevent clogged pores and inflammation deeper under the skin’s surface. Salicylic acid also acts as an anti-inflammatory.
Higher strength TCA peels penetrate deeper into the skin to trigger collagen regeneration and tighter pores that release oil and dead skin cells less readily. This reduces acne triggers.
So in summary, chemical peels beat acne through:
– Clearing pore-clogging dead skin cells
– Reducing oil and debris in follicles
– Fighting bacteria
– Controlling inflammation and redness
– Tightening pores
– Improving overall skin health
With this understanding of how peels help clear acne, let’s now look at some of the most effective options.
Salicylic Acid Peels
For those with mild to moderate inflammatory acne marked by whiteheads, blackheads, papules and pustules, salicylic acid peels are often the first chemical peel recommended. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that’s naturally found in some plants like willow bark. It’s a popular acne treatment used across many over-the-counter products thanks to its ability to penetrate and clear pores, reduce inflammation and regulate sebum production.
In a peel, salicylic acid breaks up the substance holding skin cells together to promote gentle exfoliation. As it penetrates pores, it also dissolves debris, oil and bacteria lodged inside. With less clogged follicles, fewer pimples pop up. The anti-inflammatory abilities of salicylic acid also help calm redness and swelling.
Salicylic acid peels are well-tolerated by most skin types. They come in a range of strengths usually between 15-30% pH. While higher concentrations tackle stubborn acne, they also increase risk of dryness, peeling and irritation. Most salicylic acid peels only permeate the epidermis, or outermost layer of skin, making them gentle beginner peels. However, even superficial exfoliation makes a notable difference in acne.
Benefits of salicylic acid peels include:
– Unclogging pores to prevent inflammatory lesions
– Reducing papules, pustules, whiteheads and blackheads
– Calming redness and swelling
– Managing excess oil and sebum
– Prevents new breakouts and acne scarring
– Appropriate for all skin types and colors
– Low risk of negative reaction or downtime
Salicylic acid peels can be performed weekly or bi-weekly for best effect. Be aware that skin may appear slightly red for about half an hour after treatment. Use caution mixing salicylic acid with other acne medications like retinoids as it could be too irritating. Overall salicylic acid peels are a safe, effective option for mild to moderate breakouts.
Glycolic Acid Peels
Glycolic acid is likely the most commonly used alpha hydroxy acid in chemical peels. It is naturally found in sugar cane. This type of AHA is highly effective for acne as it easily penetrates the skin and rapidly breaks down the substance holding skin cells together. This allows dead skin cells on the surface to slough off at a quicker rate. Preventing excess cell buildup is key to preventing clogged pores and acne lesions.
Glycolic peels make the outer layer of skin thinner while increasing collagen production in deeper layers. This makes pores appear smaller. Glycolic acid also displays antimicrobial properties to destroy acne-causing bacteria. All of these mechanisms make glycolic acid peels a top choice for fighting acne.
Glycolic peels also create a smoother, brighter and more even complexion by improving skin texture. Glycolic acid has small molecules, allowing it to penetrate deeply and boost cell turnover better than almost any other AHA. Concentrations typically range from 20-70%. Higher concentrations tackle severe acne but also increase the risk of irritation and redness for a few days after the peel.
Benefits of glycolic acid peels for acne include:
– Removes pore-clogging dead skin cells
– Penetrates deeply for superior exfoliation
– Has antimicrobial and antibacterial properties
– Helps regulate excess sebum
– Builds collagen to strengthen skin
– Diminishes the appearance of acne scars
– Improves skin’s tone and texture
While glycolic peels work on most skin types, they are most suitable for those with thicker skin and no active inflammation. Use caution if you have sensitive skin as higher concentrations may cause stinging or discomfort during treatment. Proper aftercare is also crucial to avoid irritation, redness and peeling. Overall, glycolic acid peels deliver stellar results for stubborn inflammatory acne.
Mandelic Acid Peels
The larger molecules of mandelic acid make it one of the gentlest alpha hydroxy acid peels. Therefore, it’s a great pick if you have highly sensitive or reactive skin but still want an effective acne peel. Mandelic acid has natural antibacterial properties to destroy acne-causing bacteria on the skin’s surface. As an AHA, it also promotes cell turnover to prevent dead skin buildup in congested pores while improving tone and texture.
Mandelic acid peels are not as deep-penetrating as glycolic or lactic acid peels. However, this makes them less likely to provoke stinging, redness or excessive dryness. Concentrations typically range from 25-50%. Since the effects are gradual, a series of mandelic acid peels is usually needed to clear acne. The gentleness makes it an ideal choice for those unable to tolerate other types of acid peels. It’s also safe on darker skin tones that can experience hyperpigmentation from deeper peels.
Benefits of mandelic acid peels include:
– Gentle exfoliation clears pore-clogging buildup
– Destroys bacteria that causes inflammatory lesions
– Prevents new acne breakouts on face and back
– Improves acne scars over time
– Appropriate for sensitive, reactive, ethnic skin
– Low risk of negative reaction or pigmentation
– More comfortable peel experience with less burning
The main downside of mandelic peels is that results take longer – about 6 to 8 treatments compared to other acids. However, they produce no downtime so can be performed frequently. Mandelic is an outstanding choice for acne if your skin skews sensitive. Signs of irritation can be managed by reducing the concentration or peel duration.
Jessner’s Peel
The Jessner’s peel contains a blend of salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol in an ethanol alcohol base. Unlike other peels, it penetrates the skin vertically instead of just on the surface. This allows it to target all layers of the epidermis for very thorough exfoliation and acne clearing. The multi-acid formulation also provides complementary acne-fighting actions.
The primary acids tackle dead skin cells through rapid cell turnover. Salicylic acid specifically reduces oil production, clears debris from pores and decreases inflammation. Resorcinol is an antiseptic that destroys bacteria plus breaks down lesions on the skin’s surface.
Jessner’s peels are administered in a series at two to four week intervals. Effects intensify with each treatment. It is well-suited to chronic, nodular acne as well as acne that produces dark spots or scarring. Thick sebaceous skin responds especially well. Repeat treatments every three months help maintain clear skin.
Benefits of Jessner’s peels for acne include:
– Penetrates vertical skin layers for deep exfoliation
– Multiple acids target acne in complementary ways
– Calms nodules, cysts and severe inflammatory lesions
– Helps lighten post-acne dark spots and scars
– Appropriate for thicker, oily, sebaceous skin
– Produces longer lasting acne clearance
– Can treat back and chest acne effectively
Jessner’s peels do carry higher risk of redness, dryness and peeling compared to lighter peels. STRICT sun avoidance is crucial for a week after to avoid pigmentation. It also cannot be used if you take isotretinoin acne medication. Overall Jessner’s offers superior results for moderate to severe inflammatory acne in those with oilier skin types.
TCA Peels
Trichloroacetic acid peels, also known as TCA peels, represent much stronger chemical peels typically performed by dermatologists. They penetrate down through the epidermis into the upper dermis, or second layer of skin. This triggers collagen and elastin regeneration for remarkably improved skin texture and pore size. It also allows deep exfoliation to prevent recurring acne.
Concentrations range from 20-50%, with higher strengths going deepest. Full strength TCA can actually penetrate down through the dermis into subcutaneous fat. However, the peel must be dissolved and neutralized quickly to avoid harm. Proper training and care is critical when using TCA peels.
TCA peels are particularly effective for severe cystic acne unresponsive to other treatments. They also substantially improve the appearance of acne scars. However, the ensuing redness, scaling, swelling and peeling means significant downtime is required post-treatment. Numerous sessions spaced one month apart are typical to see results. TCAs involve more pain during application as well.
Benefits of TCA peels include:
– Penetrates deeply to exfoliate inside pores and follicles
– Suppresses recurrent cystic breakouts
– Generates new collagen to strengthen skin’s foundation
– Smooths out pitted, indented acne scars
– Shrinks enlarged pores long-term
– Appropriate for thick, sebaceous skin types
TCA peels require vigilance to avoid complications like pigmentation irregularities or infections. Proper post-peel skin care is also imperative. While the strongest chemical peel, TCAs deliver transformative improvement in severe acne. Lighter peels are still best for those with sporadic breakouts and no deep scarring.
At-Home Acid Peels vs Professional Treatments
Many drugstores now carry do-it-yourself chemical peel pads, wipes and formulas marketed for acne. These provide weaker concentrations of acids, usually 10-15% at most. Glycolic, salicylic and lactic acid products are most common. Using them once or twice a week can provide mild improvements in breakouts.
However, professional in-office chemical peels administered by a licensed dermatologist or aesthetician offer stronger acid formulations and better results. Medical-grade peels use precisely controlled doses and depths of application difficult to replicate at home. The esthetician can also monitor and neutralize the acids to avoid over-exfoliation and complications.
With at-home peels, it’s easier to burn, scar or inadvertently mix incompatible products. DiY peels typically only affect the stratum corneum outermost layer while medical peels penetrate the epidermis or dermis as needed. For moderate to severe acne, professional treatments are definitely the way to go.
Things to Consider Before a Chemical Peel
While chemical peels provide a very effective acne treatment, they aren’t right for everyone. Certain factors must be evaluated beforehand to choose the safest peel and avoid complications:
– Skin type – Dry, sensitive skin cannot handle as strong a peel as oily, thick skin
– Skin tone – Darker skin is at higher risk for pigmentation issues
– Active breakouts – Inflamed acne needs treated before a peel
– Medications – Oral retinoids, benzoyl peroxide creams and certain antibiotics preclude peels
– Sun exposure – Recent tanning or sunburn means rescheduling
– History of cold sores – Peels can trigger breakouts so anti-viral medication may be prescribed
– Pregnancy/nursing – Must wait until after breastfeeding to peel
Always consult your dermatologist on which chemical peel suits your specific case. Be honest about any concerns and your past experiences with skin procedures or products. They will tailor the treatment accordingly.
Post-Treatment Care After an Acne Peel
Post-peel care is imperative for healing properly, avoiding complications and extending results. Follow these tips:
– Use gentle cleansers without soap, fragrance, alcohol or exfoliants
– Moisturize with bland but deeply hydrating products
– Avoid retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, harsh scrubs or toners
– Stay out of sun completely and wear broad spectrum SPF 30+
– Pop any medication blisters that develop and apply antibiotic ointment
– Use cool compresses to ease stinging
– Avoid makeup, exercising, hot baths, swimming for several days
– Take over-the-counter pain relievers as directed for discomfort
– Call the office immediately if any concerns arise
Chemical peels make skin highly vulnerable to irritation in the days following treatment. Being diligent about aftercare allows you to heal faster and see better final results from the peel. Always follow your provider’s specific recommendations for your situation as well.
How Often Can I Repeat Acne Peels?
Most chemical peels require a series of treatments performed a set number of weeks apart rather than a single session. How often they can be repeated depends on the acid type and concentration. Here are some general guidelines:
– Glycolic acid peels – Every 2 to 4 weeks
– Salicylic acid peels – Every 1 to 2 weeks
– Mandelic acid peels – Every 2 to 4 weeks
– Jessner’s peels – Every 4 weeks
– TCA peels – Every 4 to 6 weeks
Stronger TCA peels penetrating the dermis cannot be performed more frequently than every four weeks. Superficial peels can be done more often but overexfoliating risks irritation and pigmentation. Always follow your provider’s recommendations on repetition frequency. Maintenance peels every few months help sustain results long-term.
Are Chemical Peels Permanent Acne Treatments?
While no acne treatment can permanently “cure” pimples, professional chemical peels do lead to long-lasting clearance and prevention. However, consistency is key. The acids essentially reset the skin’s foundation. But as skin naturally regenerates and sheds, pore-clogging buildup can recur and again provoke breakouts.
That’s why most peels are not a one-time fix. A series of peels treats current lesions while preventing new ones down the road through deeper exfoliation. Occasional maintenance peels then sustain these improvements. Coupled with proper home care, peels can keep acne away for the long run. But straying from the treatment plan or picking up bad skin habits may cause acne to eventually return.
Chemical Peels for Acne Scars
In addition to clearing active pimples, certain chemical peels can minimize the appearance of acne scarring. This includes:
– Glycolic acid – Improves surface texture and shallow scars
– Mandelic acid – Fades discoloration from old acne spots
– Jessner’s peel – Penetrates deeply to reduce scar depth
– TCA peels – Best for deep, pitted scars via collagen rebuild
The right peel can visibly minimize indentations, pits and divots from severe acne. However, scars form over time so several treatments are required to etch away scar tissue little by little. Deeper TCA peels paired with dermabrasion or microneedling enhance results further. Always protect freshly peeled skin from sun exposure to avoid pigmentation.
Finding the best chemical peel for clearing acne requires assessing factors like your skin type, acne severity and treatment goals. Lighter salicylic and glycolic acid peels work well for mild to moderate inflammatory breakouts. Stepping up to Jessner’s or TCA peels tackle more extensive cystic acne and scarring. Consulting a dermatologist helps select the most effective yet safe peel for your needs. While not an overnight fix, chemical peels coupled with ongoing care provide a proven solution for clearer, confidence-boosting skin.
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